Moto Guzzi Club of Queensland Forum

I have been having a Deep and Meaningful with Peter (2 Cylinder Headonist), funny guy, about his CJ ECU.

My 2003 (MY04) V11 Sport Ballabio has been suffering since the MG TPS failed and I replaced it with the cheaper PF4C Magnet Marelli HD TPS. Now the snatchiness at the TPS transition point (approx. 3000rpm) is very noticeable and the bike has noticeable difficulty holding a rock-steady idle, at worst stalling after coming to a stop.

Peter recommends his CJ ECU has worked like a magic trick and all is good on 'Sophia' the Sport 1100. He has also recommended that Cliff's accompanying program is very flexible and is able to adopt this TPS, even with it's 3-percent variance over the stock PF3C.

How many of you have the CJ ECU, what are your experiences with this bit of kit and who out there can personally recommend it?

My only other choice is to buy the stock TPS at a cost of $770. I think the CJ ECU comes in under this with delivery, fully assembled and tested!

(BTW, I am not doubting the veracity of 2 Cylinder Headonist's assertions, I found his write-up to be very informative and funny. I would just like the widest viewpoint on the topic, so my beloved will be at her best again).

Oh, and for those who might not know or have ever heard of Cliff Jefferies: http://jefferies-au.org/MyECU/index.htm

Thanks for any advice

Tryg

Why wouldn't you care for such a sexy thing.....?!

I read this on the site and realise that even the stock bike has problems... Was this only indicative of bikes sporting the 16M or was the 15M also thusly affected?

Tryg

Sorry Tryg,
Had to share this from our last PM and add a bit more (Had a beer or 3 since then).
My Cliff ECU was about $700 all up fitted and that was with some of Cliff's good coffee thrown in. As I kept my old ECU as a back up on the rest of the trip, I could have saved and extra $100 by trading it in (It is the best looking paper weight I have at the moment). When you consider a Power Commander is about $550 and it doesn't have half the options or the versatility of Cliff's unit, you can see why I like it. Plus it is so much easier to tune and work with once you look and understand it. If you can understand the basics of carburation, tuning is easy. TPS adjustment is an easy affair compared to the rocket science and nuclear pyshics degree required to do the original (ever try to get 135 - 165 mv while running on one cylinder, balancing and tightening the screws and readjusting, this is an excert from the manual)

procedure is as follows:
• disconnect tie-rod “C” from the right side throttle valve; (so the throttle only operates the LH cylinder)
• Back out screw “D” (butterfly positioning) until it is no longer effective; (RH cylinder is completely shut off from any air and ya trying to run it on the left only, Gandhi time)
• loosen the potentiometer’s (TPS) holding screws “E” just enough to allow snug rotation;
• check to make sure that the valve flap closes the passage completely;
• connect the negative lead of a digital voltmeter to terminal 17 at the computer or the white wire at the
TPS. Connect the positive lead of the meter to terminal 11 of the computer or the red-black wire at the
TPS. Start the engine and maintain idle as best as possible using the left cylinder only. Rotate the TPS
assembly until a reading of 135-165 mv is measured on the meter. ;
• Tighten the TPS mounting screws. Check that voltage is still 135-165 mv and repeat as necessary.]
To do this as per book ya gotta have the patience of Gandhi and the fingers of concert pianist and the love of pain only a hard core masochist could bare. Yes other people have work arounds but is it truely correct way as designed by the manufacturers.
With Cliff's ECU, I could have a six pack of Bundy's Best under my belt and 1/2 of one in my hand, and still do it in under a minute. With a laptop hooked to the ECU, it reads real time, all ya need is the key on and turn the TPS, or set it to auto mode where it sets itself when you power on the bike (I use the manual mode).

Plus you have the option to go closed loop (add a lamda sensor) for an fully automatic map. I love the manual setup as I have the option to fudge things to the way I like (I'm no greenie and if she likes to run a little richer on acceleration than what is deemed environmentally friendly, then no lamda sensor is going to say I can't) and it's only high octane dinosaur piss that goes into the tank, not solid gold bars. I'm seeing 250 - 270 out of a tank if I behave myself (not very often), yes it is down on the standard 320ish but the bike is so much more of a pleasure to ride and it is running as intended, not what some Euro Bureaucratic Emission's Minister with a leener than thou Hitler complex wants to shove down my throat.
As good person said (Tom, he knows the bike well) it now runs like a set of good carbs. And that was all I've ever wanted, Cliff's ECU has done that and more.

If there is the intrest I'll do a bit of a write up, with a couple picies (I've doing a service shortly and won't be an issue).
Rgds
Peter

you hit it on the head the EU screwed my ECU

God I love carbies & Dyna ignitions ......

It all too much rocket science for me.

You hear lots of different stories, some I think are written to justify someones purchase (possibly in their own mind at times), but I've never heard too many bad reports about the CJ unit, they even mention them on some of the international Guzzi forums , good to see an Aussie out there at the front of the field .
I'll pull my head back in now & stop waving the patriotic flag.